舍农索城堡的浪漫传奇

有人说，要想完整领略法国风情，只需要去两个地方，一是巴黎，一是卢瓦尔河谷。卢瓦尔河全长 1012 公里，是法国第一大河，也是最美丽的一条河，尤其是中游河谷一带，古堡点缀，被统称为「卢瓦尔河谷城堡群」。卢瓦尔河谷城堡群拥有大约 300 座城堡，大多数建筑在山巅，但也有少数建在河道上或是河床边，比如舍农索城堡。这些古老的城堡是法国文明的见证，有别于巴黎的多元文化，有着纯粹的法兰西风情。各个城堡的魅力虽然各有千秋，但是舍农索城堡凭借秀丽纤巧的特点，没有丝毫逊色，反倒多了几分别样的神秘。

舍农索城堡距离巴黎 214 公里，由主堡、长廊、平台和圆塔串联而成，左右两翼分跨在卢瓦尔河的支流谢尔河两岸。舍农索城堡 11 世纪时初见于历史记录，自 1535 年后属于法国王室领地。1913 年，因巧克力而闻名的梅尼尔家族买下这座城堡，直到今天，其所有权仍在梅尼尔家族手中。因为先后有多位法国王后和贵族妇人在这里居住过，舍农索城堡因此又被称为「妇人堡」。经过一代又一代女主人的打理，这里成为卢瓦尔河谷所有古堡中最精致典雅、最富浪漫气质的一座城堡。

舍农索城堡历任女主人之一露易丝·杜邦夫人，极其聪慧，善于社交，她组织的城堡沙龙聚集了当时最出色的诗人、科学家和哲学家。孟德斯鸠、伏尔泰、卢梭都曾是座上客，这也为舍农索城堡增添了浓厚的文化氛围。与此同时，杜邦夫人慷慨善良、乐善好施，与当地居民相处得十分融洽。所以，法国大革命期间，民众并未过多地为难舍农索城堡和杜邦夫人，舍农索城堡也得以完好无损地保存下来。

舍农索城堡内保留着当年的装饰、家具、用品和布局，收藏有 16 至 18 世纪的文献、资料、绘画、雕塑等艺术品，其中不乏弗兰德挂毯这样的稀世珍宝，以及法国雕刻家古戎打造的壁炉等珍品。游走城堡中，好像时光倒流，仿佛看到法国王室成员觥筹交错、畅谈国事，贵族女眷身着华服、翩翩起舞的画面。

「优雅的从容和灵魂的安宁」是舍农索城堡的精神特质，而这种「精神」最直接的体现莫过于设计精美的花园和随处可见的鲜花装点。城堡里有两座分别以「狄安娜」和「卡特琳」命名的大花园，花园里除了栽植着常见的薰衣草、玫瑰、风信子、郁金香等花种，还有着晚香玉、爱情花等奇异花卉。在花卉的装饰上，花匠们别出心裁，每个季节都会推出不同的装饰主题，将各个角落装扮得花团锦簇，为城堡增添了许多浪漫气息。

舍农索城堡能成为传奇，不仅仅是因为它只承载了女人的故事，战争年代涌现出的巾帼风姿更是令人钦佩。一战期间，城堡的女主人出资将其改造成战时医院，各个厅堂被作为不同科室，用来救助伤员。二战期间，城堡女主人不惧危险，多次救助人员……

如今，战火早已成为过往，而这座温婉雅致的城堡在岁月的洗涤下，依旧静静地矗立在谢尔河上，越发落落大方，散发出独特的魅力。

魏伟

R O M A N C E O F C H E N O N C E A U

The Loire River， with an overall length of 1，012 kilometers， is the largest and most beautiful river in France. In particular， the middle reaches of the valley are embellished with old castles， collectively known as the Loire Valley Castles. There are about 300 castles， and each castle has its own merits. However， relying on the characteristics of fineness and exquisiteness， Chenonceau is by no means inferior.

Many French kings， queens and noble women successively lived here. Thus， Chenonceau is also known as the “Castle for Women”. Under the management of chatelaines for generations， the castle has become the most exquisite， elegant and romantic castle among all other castles in the Loire Valley.

Mrs. Louise Dupin， one of the chatelaines of Chenonceau， was clever and sociable. The most brilliant poets， scientists and philosophers of that period gathered at her castle salon， which added a strong cultural atmosphere to Chenonceau.

Chenonceau retains its past decoration， articles and layout， and has a collection of documents， materials， paintings， sculptures， furniture and other artworks from the 16th to the 18th century， as well as the fireplace designed by French sculptor Jean Goujon and other treasures. In the castle， there are two big gardens named after “Diana” and “Cathe- rine”. In addition to such common flowers as lavender， roses， hyacinths and tulips， there are some rare flowers like tuberoses and agapanthus in the gardens.

During World War I， the chatelaine of the castle changed it into a wartime hospital， in which， halls were used as different departments to treat the wounded. During World War II， the chatelaine of the castle helped the wounded regardless of the danger... Now， the flames of war have come to an end. This gentle and elegant castle still stands quietly over the River Cher in the baptism of time， appears more and more spectacular， and radiates unique charm.

作者 飞扬 闫实