在阿尔勒，遇见「梵高」

阿尔勒见证了梵高创作生涯的辉煌时期，为他提供了无限的灵感源泉。1888 年，不被巴黎主流艺术圈接纳的荷兰人文森特·威廉·梵高落魄失意，长途跋涉来到法国的普罗旺斯小镇——阿尔勒。他租住在一幢有着黄色外墙的廉价小旅馆中，将满腔热忱化作浓烈的色彩与恣意的笔触。短短一年时间，旅居阿尔勒的梵高居然创作了 300 多幅画，其中不乏《向日葵》系列这样的传世名作。更为人称道的是，梵高曾邀请高更来阿尔勒同住。两人彼此欣赏，但终因艺术理念上的差异发生了剧烈冲突而分道扬镳，并留下了那段关于《割耳后的自画像》的传奇故事。

这座城市中处处是梵高留下的印记，许多地方仍保留着当年的风貌。跟随梵高的画作，可一窥那些美与感动的源头。

《夜间的露天咖啡座》为很多人所钟爱。画面描绘了阿尔勒一家咖啡馆的室外景色，温暖而明亮的灯光洒在鹅卵石铺成的小路上；深蓝色的夜空中，群星闪烁，宛如朵朵灿烂的灯花。这座夜间咖啡馆今天依然开门纳客，并改名叫「梵高咖啡馆」。从菜单到外墙再到遮雨棚，它几乎维持着与画中相同的面貌。咖啡馆营业到 23 点，价格亲民，许多游客慕名而来，点上一杯咖啡悠闲而随意地坐着，温馨又惬意。

位于城西的梵高文化中心是梵高曾居住过的医院，他当年割下耳朵后曾被送往这里救治，后又因精神病被困于此。1889 年 4 月，梵高以这里的庭院为原型，创作了《阿尔勒医院的花园》。原来的医院早已搬离，这里现在有各种店铺、图书馆等，是开放的游览地。

阿尔勒竞技场是小城中最显眼的建筑，也是法国历史最悠久的竞技场之一，梵高曾描绘过竞技场的盛大场景。游客几乎不需要刻意留心，就能毫不费劲地在城市的各个角落看到它傲然挺立的身姿。它建于罗马帝国时期，长 136 米，宽 109 米，以双层拱廊为特色，共有 120 个拱门，能容纳 2 万多名观众。阿尔勒竞技场最初主要用于战车比赛和血腥的角斗士肉搏战，目前是法国为数不多的斗牛场之一，经常一票难求。

抛开梵高，阿尔勒是拥有众多历史古迹和独特文化的古城。位于地中海边、把守着罗纳河入海口的阿尔勒，曾是古罗马统治下的繁荣城市，是凯撒大帝麾下第六军团退伍军人的定居城。公元四世纪，城里兴建起众多宏伟建筑，有「高卢人的小罗马」之称。1981 年，7 座古罗马和罗马式古迹被联合国教科文组织列入《世界遗产名录》。

在阿尔勒的大街小巷穿梭散步，既可以感受罗马风情，还能遇见艺术家曾经生活中的一草一木，感受他们留下的艺术之光，收获不一样的感动。

In Arles， Meet “Van Gogh”

When it comes to the small French city of Arles， many people seem to know it， which is attributed to Van Gogh. Starry Night Over the Rhone， Terrace Cafe at Night， and Summer Garden...In Van Gogh’s paintings， the bright starry sky， warm cafes， and beautiful summer garden， all these aspects of the little town are forever are frozen in the brilliance of art.

In 1888， the Dutchman Vincent William Van Gogh came to Arles， a small town in Provence， France. He turned his enthusiasm into strong colors and arbitrary brushstrokes. In just one year， Van Gogh created more than 300 paintings in Arles， including many masterpieces such as the Sunflower series.

Arles is full of imprints left by Van Gogh. Many places still retain the style of the years when Van Gogh lived here. Cafe Terrace at Night is loved by many people. The night café， which is still open today， has been renamed the “Van Gogh Cafe”. From the menu to the fa？ade， then to the awning， it maintains almost the same appearance as in the painting. The cafe is open until 23 o’clock with ordinary prices. So， many tourists come here because of respect for its fame.

The Arles Arena is the most conspicuous building in the small town and one of the oldest arenas in France. Van Gogh once depicted the grand scene of the arena. Visitors hardly need to pay attention to it. They can easily see its proud and upright figure in every corner of the city. Built during the Roman Empire， it has 120 arches and can accommodate more than 20，000 spectators. The Arles Arena was originally used mainly for chariot races and bloody gladiator hand-to-hand combat. It is currently one of the few bullrings in France. However， the tickets are often hard to come by.

作者 飞扬