山色也醉人

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作者

西海岸域内的四大山脉,伟岸葱郁兼具海的灵秀,承载着悠久厚重的历史和文化底蕴。眺望「双珠嵌云」的奇景,领略「大珠山不大、小珠山不小」的别样魅力;穿行于铁橛山悠悠山林中,自由唿吸「森林氧吧」的新鲜空气;踏青藏马山,沿着绵延起伏的登山步行道,感受「青山绕雾纱,深处寻香花」……在青山绿水之间,开启一场回归自然、奔赴山海的山岳生态之旅。

钟灵毓秀小珠山

《胶州志》载:「治南有大、小山,海疆名镇也。小珠千岩攒空两峰特起,万山皆在其下;大珠山绵亘百余里,东插入海,势如巨鳌,二山错立,天表云气,出没不绝,夏尤蓊蔚,望之累累若珠。」

层峦叠嶂、奇峰陡峭的小珠山,以独特风景位列古胶州八景之首,与崂山隔海而峙,并称「东崂西珠」。小珠山脉系巍然而深秀,境内山清水秀,融奇、险、清、幽于一身,群峰迭翠、怪石嶙峋。清朝文士周智于有诗云:「累累形胜若苍烟,九曲谁将一线牵,神女倦游何处,双珠抛在水云边。」说的便是小珠山中花繁水秀。

作为国家级森林公园,珠山国家森林公园面积 40 平方公里,境内有名称且海拔百米以上的山峰就有 40 余座,而海拔 400 米以上的山峰有小珠山、南天门、釜台筒等,其中小珠山主峰大顶海拔 724.9 米。值得一提的是,修建于春秋战国时期的齐长城、明朝白云寺等名胜古迹犹存,望夫山、青石潭、狐仙洞等美妙传说至今耐人寻味。

水是山之灵气。曲折婉转流淌于山间谷壑的湾湾溪流化作小珠山的灵动神韵。一泻而下的水流撞击石板溅起水花朵朵,描摹出「大珠小珠落玉盘」的诗意。落日余辉用波光粼粼的浅金为泉水叮咚作配,斑驳树影间的碎金散银为这山水增添了一抹灵动和神秘。小珠山脚下的青石潭清澈见底,倒映着小珠山的绝美轮廓,一眼便是千年。

除了大自然的馈赠,小珠山的千古人文也引得人们前来拜谒。其中,最有名的当属齐长城遗址。要知道,横亘于齐鲁大地的齐长城修筑于春秋战国时期,迄今已有 2600 多年历史,是中国现存有准确遗迹可考、年代最早的古代长城,也是中国内保存最完整的先秦古长城遗址。这项宏伟的工程西起济南平阴,一路向东,从诸城史家夼村进入青岛西海岸新区境内,先后经过六汪镇、灵山卫街道等 8 个镇街,最后从于家河村东北入海,由西到东贯穿全境,其中青岛段现存长度 32.994 公里。登上小珠山远眺,北山段齐长城遗址清晰可辨,面对这历经千年沧桑的人工奇迹不由肃然起敬。如果说,齐长城遗址让人感叹「历史如风,众生如苔」,那菩提寺则会让人领悟「一花一世界,一叶一菩提」。始建于明代、原名白云寺的菩提寺坐落在灵珠山,位于小珠山北麓、大庵山南麓。这里因南临大海且地势较高,山顶常有白云缭绕,如同仙境一般。作为江北最大的佛教寺院,整个菩提寺由一条主轴,两条副轴组成,分中、东、西三路构成院落,主体包括山门殿、天王殿、大雄宝殿、藏经阁、观音殿、舍利塔、钟鼓楼等,其中在观音殿内修建了一座四面千手千眼的观音铜像。史韵悠悠,古寺深深,仰望苍山巍峨,静听梵音袅袅,葱翠林间是一份难得的清心宁静。

赏珠山秀谷观万亩杜鹃

西海岸有一处胜景叫作「双珠嵌云」,说的就是大珠山和小珠山。其中的大珠山以佛教文化、隐士文化和万亩野生杜鹃而闻名。选在春天游览大珠山,不仅可以观奇石、品历史,还能在姹紫嫣红的花海中寻觅最动人心魄的春色。

盛放在春天的杜鹃花,给大珠山带来春意盎然的生机和活力。春光里的大珠山不仅山含韵、水有情,更因杜鹃花的绽放显得处处妩媚。沐浴着海风,前往那漫山绯红的杜鹃花海。单单只为这,也是值得的。从 3 月到 5 月,大珠山中便陆续盛开着万亩野生杜鹃。漫山遍野的杜鹃花,紫如云嫣如雾,十分壮观。如此大面积的野生杜鹃,这在中国北方沿海地区是罕见的,也正因此,每年的「杜鹃花会」吸引着天南海北的游客前来。

在许多人眼里,西海岸真正的春天,是随着大珠山杜鹃花的盛开而来的。花期更替的大珠山,美得让人应接不暇——从大珠山「珠山秀谷」进入,便会看到树枝上挂着粉白水嫩的朵朵桃花,特别是在仙人庐,那里的桃花更是壮观,远看像一片粉白色的海洋,近看如粉雕玉琢。娇艳的桃花一直沿途开放,直到游客中心一带,眼前的色彩才渐渐被嫩黄代替,那是一串串一簇簇的迎春,它们在这山间春色中独有一种美艳。一阵春风吹过,迎春摆动着柔软的枝条,像是在空中跳起欢快的舞蹈,一直舞进春光明媚的溪流旁。

众花皆美得自成一派,但都是配角——在大珠山中,这万花丛中只有杜鹃花是主角,犹如千百花仙中唯一的花神。大珠山的杜鹃花主要有「蓝荆子」「映山红」和「崆峒花」3 种。最先开放的「蓝荆子」是大珠山规模最大、面积最广的杜鹃花品种,待到 4 月全部盛开时漫山遍野红染山川,十分壮观,花期一直持续到 4 月中下旬。之后,「映山红」在 5 月初竞相绽放,色彩鲜艳,花型更大也更具观赏性。随后,「崆峒花」也将逐渐绽放。每年春天,「杜鹃三姐妹」相继开放成一片杜鹃花海,堪称江北第一奇观。如果登上大珠山的山顶,便可见南面有好几条山谷里也盛开着杜鹃花,远远望去,如云似霞。

藏马山里的向往生活

青岛古时有「东有崂山,西有藏马山」之说,足可见藏马山的景色并不亚于崂山,只是「藏在深闺无人知」,常常被人遗忘罢了。随着「阿朵小镇」的出现,这里渐渐被人熟知。

藏马山坐落于西海岸的大村镇和藏马镇境内,绵延 30 公里,山峦跌宕俊美,森林覆盖率高达 76%,是名副其实的天然氧吧。传说,秦始皇第三次巡视琅琊台时已得长生不老药,却被他的大白马吞食,秦始皇气极欲杀之,然白马脱缰逃进了深山,后来白马藏身的深山中出现了一条河,因河水能治百病而被称作「白马河」,此山故称「藏马山」。

有着「绿色小巨肺」之称的藏马山,如今成为人们轻旅行慢生活的目的地,驱车而来只为「向往的生活」。沿着开城路一路前行,开阔的大地上豁然出现一道绿色天然屏障,仿佛能过滤掉凡尘俗世,只留一片纯净自然。放眼望去,满目青绿,只想张开双臂紧紧拥抱大自然。虽说花开花落四季有常,但藏马山的景色绝对能让人瞬间换上另一种心情,有轻松、自在,甚至有感动。像是坐着开往春天的列车,一路心花怒放,带着愉悦奔赴而来。

美景如画的藏马山,有不同慢生活主题,无论哪个季节来到这里,都有新的发现:春天,沿着山间步道登上藏马山,与大自然来个深情的拥抱;夏天,在星空下露营或者在树屋中度过美妙一夜,感受深深山谷的静谧;秋天,在童话一般的秋景中牵手走过,又会是不一样的感受;冬天,滑雪场中的驰风而行,汤泉里的舒缓享受,无不是令人难忘的瞬间。如今,藏马山中又多了个「阿朵小镇」,农庄、茶田、花屿……无一不值营造着一个人人向往的诗与远方。

藏马山仿佛是一个巨大的宝藏,等你前来挖掘。你有一天的时间,它会带给你一天的快乐;你有一周的时间,它会带给你一周的享受;你有一个月的时间,它会带给你一个月的满足……然后,也许,你会留在这里,不走了。

「云」游铁橛山

铁橛山的知名度并不高,但许多人听说过胶州古八景中的「铁橛悬泉」,对铁橛山的向往也多源自悬泉的好奇。选一个有云有风有阳光的日子,登铁橛山会是一场充满文化寻踪色彩的短暂悠游,一边感受着铁橛山的山、泉、树、石、果、花、草所经历的悠然岁月,一边默默聆听着铁橛山的沧桑厚重,这样的享受实在难得。

许多人曾一度将铁橛山误作「铁镢山」。实际上,铁橛山因「山势峻峭、石色如铁、橛石耸立」而得名——山石颜色如铁,更像一块巨大的木橛子直插山中。因为铁橛山中百泉争涌、木灵石异而被人们啧啧称奇,自古便有「三十六峰、七十二泉」的名声流传。铁橛山中,会仙峰、天碑、仭壁神洞等万千景象,不仅风光宜人,还有着十分传奇的故事,给这山间景色平添了风雅韵致,吸引着人们探寻。其中,位于莲花峰下海拔 500 米的山崖峭壁间的铁橛悬泉,因「溽暑不溢、大旱不涸」的滴水奇观堪称绝妙,是古胶州八景之一。

恍若仙境的铁橛山总是一派山谷幽林的景象,这里的四季风景各有不同:春天,山中的槐树上开满槐花,山谷里满是芬芳;到了夏天,各种野花开遍山谷,是花的海洋;入秋之后,深深浅浅的绿变成了浓浓淡淡的金黄,一片悠然宁静的景色;如果到了冬天,银装素裹下的雪景更是不可多得,海棠在初冬下霜后变得惹眼极了,而雾凇的出现,更让人称奇,许多摄影爱好者因为这里的雾凇雪景而流连忘返。

站在铁橛山的山顶平台俯瞰,眼前景色如画,天高地阔间,近处的农田、村庄、河流共同勾勒出一幅美丽画卷。抬头望着晴好的天空,大朵云彩浸在明媚阳光里,镶上了夺目银边,染着美丽光晕。

停停走走,循着云的踪影,去游走西海岸那大大小小的山,去采撷一朵美丽的云,收进日记,藏在心底。

Intoxicating Mountain Scenery

The mountains of the Qingdao West Coast New Area are majestic and lush, with the delicate beauty of the sea, bearing a long and profound history and rich cultural heritage. At here, you can overlook the marvelous scenery of "two mountains embedded in clouds", appreciate the unique charm of Dazhu (big pearl) Mountain and Xiaozhu (small pearl) Mountain which are different from what their names suggest, follow the footprints of the First Emperor of Qin and Emperor Wu of Han to chase the historical footprints on Langya Terrace, walk through the forests on Tiejue Mountain to breathe the fresh air of "forest oxygen bar" freely and climb the Yueji Mountain to touch the profound Chinese civilization along the rolling Great Wall of Qi. Amid the green mountains and lucid waters, you can embark on an eco-tour to get close to nature and embrace yourselves.

Dazhu Mountain, which is surrounded by the sea on three sides, is praised as a "famous coastal mountain" in Qi Sheng and Ye Hai Series, and the "number one resort in the state" in Jiaozhou Annals. It is famous for its "beautiful valleys, strange peaks, grotesque rocks and luxuriant flowers". There is a beautiful view of "a green peak connecting the peninsula". In particular, every spring, thousands of acres of wild azaleas bloom in the wind, showing a beautiful sea of azaleas that enchants the tourists.

Located on the seashore, Xiaozhu Mountain is an escape from winter chill and summer heat. With unique scenery of luxuriant flowers, clear waters, layers of hills, grotesque and steep peaks, it has been listed as the first of the eight scenic spots in Jiaozhou by the predecessors. Xiaozhu Mountain, like a fairyland on earth with strange rocks, lakes and streams, presents fresh and green views full of vitality and allows people to fully embrace nature. In Zhushan National Forest Park, there are peaks with an alti- tude of more than 400 meters such as Xiaozhu Mountain, South Tianmen, and Futaitong (Husband-Waiting Rock) which feature grotesque rocks, five reservoirs such as Qingshi Bay, and artificial caves such as Dashiwu and South Tianmen. The Great Wall of Qi, 2600 years old, has been listed as a key cultural relic site under state protection, the Baiyun Temple of the Ming Dynasty and other places of interest are still standing, and Wangfu Mountain (Husband-Waiting Mountain), Qingshi Pond, and Huxian Cave with wonderful legends that are still told today make people linger.

Tiejue Mountain, with layer upon layer of peaks, hundreds of springs, lush woods, and strange stones, is known as the home to "36 peaks and 72 springs" in ancient times. 135 million years ago, the Cretaceous orogeny formed a unique geological and natural landscape in Qingdao Tiejue Mountain Scenic Area. This place boasts not only a long history and beautiful scenery, but also rich cultural resources. Scholars have left many beautiful poems, articles and music about this place, and the numerous historical sites are telling the vicissitudes that theTiejue Mountain has gone through.

Located in Dacun Town and Cangnan Town in Qingdao West Coast New Area, Cangma Mountain stretches for 30 kilometers, with beautiful rolling hills and a forest coverage rate of 76%. It is a veritable natural oxygen bar and truly a place of beauty. In ancient Jiaozhou, there was a saying that "There is Laoshan Mountain in the east and Cangma Mountain in the west". Cangma Mountain, known as a "giant green lung", is like a natural green barrier on the open land. It seems to filter out the hustle and bustle of the world, leaving only the natural scenery. Looking around, green is everywhere, and the smell of sunshine is in the air. It is like a huge treasure, waiting for you to explore.


作者 Lisa