乡约四季

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西海岸有赏不尽的风景、数不尽的风情、尝不尽的美食……畅游西海岸有许多主题,但其中少不了去乡野间寻「鲜」——这个「鲜」,在于层出不穷的新鲜感,即便在那些耳熟能详的小镇,你仍然能从一草一木一砖一瓦间,感受到她的魅力。

在西海岸,每一个特色小镇都有自己的独特韵味:在「南茶北引」的海青茶园里采茶、炒茶、品茶,体验一次向往已久的典雅茶韵之旅;在「油画小镇」张家楼,跟着大师的指点描绘自己的第一幅油画;宝山的蓝莓、大场的草莓、铁橛山的板栗、樱皇谷的樱桃,都是不可错过的采摘乐园;杨家山里的原山原水原生活,让人沉醉其间流连忘返;六汪镇热气腾腾的「塔桥」全羊宴,让旅程增添一份忘不掉的美味记忆。

张家楼:蓝莓之乡·油画名镇

张家楼街道(原张家楼镇)北依铁橛山、藏马山,东靠大珠山,东南濒古镇口湾,同时拥有 5 公里长的优美海岸线。除了怡人的自然环境,张家楼还因「蓝莓之乡」和「油画名镇」而知名。

汽车飞驰在田间,听着路边「沙沙沙」的树叶响声,闻着随风飘来的青草香气,享受着阳光的亲昵,不知不觉间便融入了一片绿意之中。陶醉没多久,便是震撼人心的大片蓝莓园:种植园区缓缓高低起伏,除了田间小路露出泥土的颜色,放眼望去都是绿色,深深浅浅却层次分明的绿地与蓝色的天、白色的云构成了最美丽的画布,在这清新通透的景致中,是带着头巾、斗笠的采摘工人忙碌的身影……看着眼前诱人的「紫色」,脑海中轮番浮现出各种美食:蓝莓果酱酸甜香滑,蓝莓果汁香气氤氲,蓝莓果酒馥郁醇香。到了张家楼,紫斐酒庄是一定要去的,这里以丰富的科普形式系统展现了蓝莓起源、酿酒工艺、储酒之器、露酒之贵等内容,为人们打造了寓教于乐的水果闻香台、果酒文化体验、果酒酿造 DIY 课堂、果酒果汁品鉴体验,通过专业的讲解和沉浸式的体验进一步提升蓝莓果酒认知,激发想象力和创造力。

2019 年,张家楼的大泥沟头村入选山东省乡村振兴典型案例。其先后被评为「全国文明村」「中国美丽休闲乡村」。这里,一座座独栋别墅错落有致,一间间艺术工作室随处可见,其中绿泽画院最引人注目,成千上万幅画作在此展出,前来参观的客人络绎不绝……没有人会想到,远近闻名的「达尼画家村」在 30 年前因三面环山、土地贫瘠、交通闭塞而缺乏发展活力,「大泥沟」3 个字就是当时最直观的写照。当年,为了改善村庄的环境,当地大力开展植树造林、绿化护林工作,到 2002 年大泥沟头村的森林覆盖率达到了 50% 以上,造就了绿树环绕、山清水秀、果木点缀的「世外桃源」。也正是这片绿意盎然、环境清幽,深深吸引了一直苦苦寻找能安心创作新归处的农民画家解中才,随着绿泽画院在大泥沟头村落户并发展壮大,「达尼画家村」越叫越响。后来,青岛绿泽画院发展成为中国北方最大的油画企业、国家文化出口重点企业,而大泥沟头村因优美的自然生态与日渐浓厚的艺术氛围,成为艺术创作者的向往之地,外来人才在此安家,不少村民也放下锄头拿起画笔,走上了文化产业的致富之路。

海青:北茶古镇·静雅海青

在中国,名茶大多以地域品类来命名,「西湖龙井」「黄山毛尖」「安溪铁观音」「洞庭碧螺春」「祁门红茶」,许多灵秀之地因出产好茶而名声大噪,海青镇便是如此。实际上,海青种茶的历史可以追溯到 2000 年前,这里是江北地区茶叶种植纬度最高、规模最大的乡镇。

海青镇位于西海岸的西南部,这个总面积不过 100 平方公里的小镇,与绿茶有着千丝万缕的联系。进入海青镇的地界,便见一片精致写意的传统中式造景,街头巷尾皆是清一色的小青瓦、马头墙。蓝天白云下,这雅致的灰白色调格外引人入胜,特别是徜徉在海青镇的北茶商街,古朴、恬静的气息扑面而来,宛如一幅水黛烟青的江南水墨画,令人心旷神怡。得胜楼大戏院、中国北方抹茶学院、南茶北引展览馆……海青镇「北域江南」的美誉,在北茶商街显现得淋漓尽致,乡愁茶廊更以「茶通九州」和「记住乡音·记住乡愁」为主线融入了乡土文化、曲艺评书、休闲旅游、民谣清吧等元素。

独特的地理条件造就了海青镇「小江南」的气候,天地精灵孕育了海青茶「叶肉厚、墨绿色、黄绿汤、栗子香」的独特品质。每年的 3 月至 10 月是海青茶的采摘期,从采摘到制成茶叶,要经过摊晾、高温杀青、造形、磨光、提香等若干道工序,品一杯茶,赏一处景,得一份禅静。

春天,青翠的茶园里有采茶女如画的身影;夏天,微风吹过一片片毛竹林滤出一片清新……这里是茶的故乡、竹的故乡、水的故乡,一派北域江南的风情。来了,你一定会爱上这里。

杨家山里:误入人间秘境

三山环抱,一河穿梭。「杨家山里」并非一个独自的村庄,而是一个「群落」。放眼望去,满是生机的铁橛山、月季山、睡牛山围拢环绕,上沟、墩上、黄泥巷、东南崖、墨城安、西北庄、大下庄、后石沟 8 个村庄依水、依山而立,月季、栀子花傲然生长,点缀在村落的角角落落,一派生机。

之所以叫「杨家山里」,是因当地老百姓 90% 以上姓杨。据记载,明洪武年间,杨氏从「小云南」始迁此处,建立宗祠。600 多年来,勤劳的山里人利用山区地势,遍植樱桃、杏树、板栗、柿树等果木,使得如今的杨家山里三季有花、四季有果,百年老树更是枝繁叶茂,蔚为壮观。

三山环抱的杨家山里可谓物产丰饶、浪漫至极。自明朝开始种植的樱桃,现种植面积已达 180 多公顷,这里成为远近闻名的「樱桃之乡」。此外,春赏花、夏避暑、秋采摘、冬滑雪,这里的四季有着不一样的精彩:春日的杨家山里,樱桃花、杏花竞相开放,如云似霞点缀山间,如有春雨,便更有落英缤纷、杏花春雨的绝佳意境;夏秋时节,月季漫山遍野,五彩斑斓,点缀起这层层绿色叠嶂;冬日雪后的杨家山里,更是银装素裹,纯白静谧,似给这世间一分独有的清净。

大自然的馈赠让众人纷至沓来,找寻一份内心的宁静。田园里的绿色蔬菜、现摘的鲜果、自家养的鸡鸭鱼鹅……来自「原山原水原生态、原汁原味原生活」的乡间美景、美味,让人留恋忘返,村落里的农家宴总是车马盈门、宾朋满座。单是这自然的馈赠似乎还不够,一段历史的烽火又给这里增添了几分厚重。

风从山中来,引得百花开。杨家山里,这个在自然、历史、现代的交织中沉淀的「群落」,用自己的内蕴给世人留下了众多记忆,也留下了美好的向往。

藏马镇:乡村会客厅留住乡愁

煳满报纸的砖瓦房里挂着年画和剪纸,暖烘烘的土炕上铺着高粱杆编织的凉席,锅台里蒸着香喷喷的地瓜和芋头,成堆的苞米棒子摊在门外地上晾晒着……藏马镇的大马家疃村火了,许多「都市人」慕名而来,亲身感受噼柴、挑水、生火等农家劳作,体验民俗、寻找乡愁,品尝独特农家菜肴,感受原汁原味乡土风情。而「乡愁」的载体,正是村里的一处处「乡村会客厅」。

「乡村会客厅」门外的墙院上,大多描绘着引发人们乡愁的美丽图画;而屋内,随处可见风箱、钟表、收音机、暖瓶等老物件,勾起人们久远的乡愁记忆……这些用村民闲置的农房打造的「乡村会客厅」,散落在村头巷尾,与村子融为一体,不仅吸引了都市人前来打卡,也成了村里乡亲们的议事厅和休憩处。如今,大马家疃村已将「乡村会客厅」与基层党建、乡村振兴、乡愁记忆、乡村旅游、志愿服务等有机融合,有文化创意院、民宿、非遗传承室、拓展训练基地等等。

瑰丽的海天风光,旖旎的湖光山色,清新的绿野丛林,淳朴的风土人情……渔村、山村、乡村,一处处特色小镇,为西海岸平添了一道道独特的风景。

The Four Seasons of Small Towns

Qingdao West Coast New Area boasts endless scenery and infinite charm. With magnificent sea and sky scenery, beautiful lakes and mountains, fresh green fields and forests, simple local customs and traditions, etc., the many characteristic towns here all feature unique landscape.

Each town has its own unique charm. You can pick, stir-fry and taste tea at Haiqing Tea Garden which has "the introduced tea from the south", and experience a long-anticipated journey of exploring the charm of tea; follow a drawing master to draw your first oil painting at Zhangjialou, known as the "town of oil painting"; pick blueberries in Baoshan, strawberries in Dachang and cherries on Tiejue Mountain; and feel the buzz of life at Poli Market of Poli Town, which has more than 300 years of history. Besides, the simple life close to the mountains and waters at Yangjiashanli of Tieshan Subdistrict will make you linger and the steaming hot "Taqiao" mutton feast in Liuwang Town can add an unforgettable memory of delicious food to your journey.

Haiqing Town, the "hometown of green tea in northern China", is located in the southwest of Qingdao West Coast New Area, also the southwestern tip of Qingdao. Green tea plays a vital role in this small town with a total area of only 100 square kilometers. The place is more like a small town in the south of the Yangtze River. When you are about to enter the territory of Haiqing Town, you will see exquisite Huistyle architecture, which seems to remind you that this is Haiqing. Entering Haiqing Town, the houses on the streets all have grey tiles and Ma Tau wallwatts. In the blue sky and under white clouds, the elegant gray-white color is particularly enchanting, making you feel that you have walked into a small town in Huizhou.

Zhangjialou Town is adjacent to Tiejue Mountain and Cangma Mountain in the north, Dazhu Mountain in the east, and Guzhenkou Bay in the southeast. Therefore, Zhangjialou Town, surrounded by mountains on three sides, has a beautiful coastline of 5 kilometers. In addition to the pleasant natural scenery, Zhangjialou Town also has two renowned hallmarks, namely, blueberries and oil paintings, which have improved the popularity and reputation of this characteristic town and made it famous overseas. Relying on the advantages of being "surrounded by three mountains and one bay" and a forest coverage of 53%, Zhangjialou Town has been promoting the integrated development of agriculture and tourism, culture, health care, sports and other industries.

Without the hustle and bustle of big cities, Dachang Town has only natural tranquility. Because the local soil is very suitable for the growth of strawberries, and the local people devote particular care to watering and fertilization, the strawberries grown here taste divine. Here, you can also try the fun of picking strawberries by yourself. It’s even more fun to pick and eat at the same time. How can one resist picking and eating fruits that are completely pollution-free

Yangjiashanli, surrounded by three mountains, is rich in natural resources and extremely romantic. Its planting areas of cherries, which have been grown since the Ming Dynasty, have now reached more than 180 hectares, making it a famous "hometown of cherries". Many rural tourism projects, such as"boutique homestays", "sea of azalea flowers", and "Qi Great Wall Orchards", have formed a new pattern of rural tourism featuring "appreciating flowers in spring, escaping the heat in summer, picking fruits in autumn, and skiing in winter".


作者 Lisa